Monday, October 1, 2007

Northwest Passage







As we worked our way towards Salmon Arm we were still in awe of the green, lush, woods that touched the wide and deep glacial lakes all around. Tonto found its way to Paul and Jill Dixon’s driveway and after only two nights, a bike ride, a hike in the rainy woods, a stroll down main street, and a game called “Battle of the Sexes” (the girls won both games!) we felt right at home in Salmon Arm.

Then we followed Paul and Rachael through the dry hills of Kamloops and on south to the famous Allison Lake. The family history on this lake is incredible from both sides. The Dixons and the Stouts have looked under hoods, built roofs over their heads and dreamed by wood-burning stoves here for over 40 years. Susan’s grandparents ran a dude ranch at the end of the lake and though the original ranch is gone, many family members have a piece of the land with cottages fashioned after the original buildings. Their cottage has been in Mark’s family for over 40 years, and here with the whole Dixon clan we got to live close to the land; picking vegetables from the garden, cutting firewood from high in the forest, shaping wooden kayak paddles with our hands in the workshop, fixing stuff on the truck by committee. I was so looking forward to seeing the place where Claire had grown up and Kees had so recently enjoyed and it didn’t disappoint. Paul had been telling me he would take me barefooting and within minutes of arriving, and the sky clearing of rain, I donned the dry suit and went at it. At times I felt like I had an ice cream headache (due to the 45F temp and constant spray in the face), at times I thought my eyelids were going to rip off in a crash, but it was a pure rush. After another biking adventure and a sad farewell Tonto hit the road toward Vancouver.

On the way we spent one night boondock-camped high on a remote mountain dirt road. In Vancouver we caught up with my cousins Thomas, Francesca and Nick. It was a very different kind of campsite than we have had before – a back alley in a very hip part of a big city. We spent a couple days catching up with friends and family and stretching our legs for runs, and more board games!

One of the best things about traveling in Tonto, is that at the start of a day we may have only a general idea of direction but really no idea of where we are going until something on the map catches our interest. We knew we had to head south to escape the cold weather that was coming down the west coast, to find our new tires (more later) and to meet up with more friends! But first with a few days to kill we decided to head out to the Olympic peninsula and it didn’t disappoint. After a short stop in a surf shop we headed for the coast. In fact it was Cape Flattery – the most northwest point in the lower 48!! So now we can say that Tonto has really been east, south, north and west!

The main goal we have these days is to get new tires for Tonto, and since we won a set of free tires in the sportsmobile rally in July actually getting the tires has been some sort of goose chase. John has been really tough about getting on the phone with people and hunting down the supply chain so that FINALLY we will be getting our tires in Portland, Oregon. We have opted for the 35” BF Goodrich Mud Terrains – hopefully to keep the dust down when we are traveling through the desert climates and since they run with lower tire pressure we might be able to make it across beaches easier and have a smoother ride. And they look great.

Thursday, September 20, 2007

Going West in Canada


Sometimes when you are traveling on the road you need a vacation. We took a ‘vacation’ back to the east coast to visit family at Salter’s Point and Lake George, attend weddings on Saturdays, meet up with friends at the beach and teach a willing few the finer points of riding on the air chair! Lobo traveled with us and he loved chasing balls on the golf course at Salter’s and swimming and hiking off Turtle Rock. It was a busy trip and by the end we were ready to come “home” to Tonto who was parked in Calgary.

Tonto had an appointment for a bit of bodywork around the fenders to make room for new bigger tires. After a lot of looking we found a great guy, Mike who agreed to take on the cutting, folding and molding of a custom job. Tonto also now has new Mag-Hytec transmission pan and rear differential cover. These are heavy-duty, high volume parts that will increase reliability on long, bumpy, dusty backcountry roads.

Our friends Neige, Nick and Solei were great hosts again while we were in Calgary. And Don and Fiona hosted a great BBQ and band at their farm where we danced the night away for our first night back on the road! The next day we did a great bike loop outside of Calgary in the Kananaski forest with a group of friends. The Aspen trees were turning, the air was cool, and there were smiles covered in dirt all afternoon. That night we had the interesting experience of finding a boondock about 40 feet from some very active train tracks. We were so tired that we decided to see if we could make it through the night with these HUGE cargo trains rumbling by. It was an early morning departure.

We headed towards Canmore to get supplies and some internet time. Just as we were pulling into the Safeway supermarket we went over a speedbump and heard a huge BANG and a dragging sound! The motorcycle carrier had dropped off! Luckily the motorcycle was saved because the straps holding it up held, and it was a clean shearing off of the weld job on the 2” extension we had added in Cedar City. Sadly we were too stunned to get a photo of the moment. But now what? Of course there were friendly Canadians all around who lead us from one place to another to find a welder. On the third try (the first was out of business, the second too busy) we found Lee who agreed to do our emergency job. He did some fantastic work welding the pieces back together, adding gussets and paint and we hitched the carrier back up and were on our way!

The Canadian Rockies are spectacular at every turn off the road. We didn’t stay for more than a few moments at some overlooks this time through but the national parks along the Trans-Canada highway deserve a return trip for some exploring. We had heard there was some good mountain biking in Revelstoke and it was a town I was looking forward to visiting. Revelstoke is going to be growing very fast with the opening and expansion of the new ski resort. It is a place set in an incredibly beautiful valley with National parks at one end and endless wilderness, mountains, lakes, and rivers around. We hit some green mossy trails with good climbs and descents (they like their downhill bikes around here) and then we took a ferry across Upper Arrow Lake to look for the hot springs. The next day was spent soaking in the natural hot springs on Halfway River and it was a great way to unwind and ‘get back to nature’.

Last night we took a small cable ferry across Upper Arrow Lake at Arrow Park to access some forest service roads and our own little piece of lakeside boondocking. Today we will head on a big loop (requiring two more free ferry crossings) away from the Trans-Canada (away from the train) through Nakusp, to Salmon Arm and Kamloops for a weekend with the Dixons. Looking forward to some mountain biking, water sports and good laughs.